It took us almost three years to make our first enamel watch dial. We've refined our technique with practice, but every one of our dials still goes through the same basic journey...

Making a dial blank

It all begins with a disc being cut from a copper or silver sheet. Our enamalists cut these by hand, and then drill holes into which they can solder the 'dial feet.' The underside of the dial must first be ‘counter-enamelled’ to prevent the dial from bending when in the oven.




Preparing the enamel

Enamel is ground from lump form into a powder and applied to the metal base. A typical enamel is made up of silica, red lead and soda ash.



The first firing

The kiln is heated to over 830°C and the powdered dial is fired. The exact time in the kiln varies depending on the chemical make-up of a particular enamel. Once removed from the kiln and cooled, the dial is checked for inclusions or bubbles which are removed and refilled between each firing.



Careful refinements

The process is repeated several times until the correct depth of colour and height are achieved. The final firing gives the dial a smooth sheen. The dials are printed using traditional pad-printing equipment. The printed dials are inspected through a loupe and if satisfactory, the ink is then cured.




Finishing touches

The completed dials are passed on to our watch-maker Chris, who can begin assembly. The watches are regulated and tested in six positions over a 48-hour period before they are ready to package and dispatch: